Date: August 8, 2025
Link to original article: From waste to wonder: Revival of ancient Roman ‘golden fiber’ with pen shells

A new milestone in biomaterials research: at LBEM (Laboratory for Biological, Biomimetic, Eco-friendly Materials), our team has successfully produced a modern version of the historic “sea silk” textile by using byssus threads from Atrina pectinata clam waste. This revival parallels ancient Roman practices and signals a sustainable route to creating high-end fiber. 

Historically, sea silk was made from the byssus threads of the Mediterranean pen shell (Pinna nobilis). Because P. nobilis is endangered, harvesting is now restricted. The PopSci article explains that LBEM researchers turned instead to the more abundant and farmed pen shells from the Korean coast (A. pectinata), whose byssus threads are often discarded as waste. 

The research team found that although A. pectinata threads are shorter and less robust, their protein sequences and structural features closely mirror those of P. nobilis. 

 By refining collection methods (requesting fishermen to separately gather byssus threads) and carefully processing them, the team coaxed out the latent “golden” fiber properties. 

One of the most intriguing findings is that the golden luster of sea silk is not due to pigment, but to structural color. The team identifies proteins called Photonin that organize into nanostructures, creating the shimmering hue. Because the color arises from structure rather than dye, the fiber resists fading over centuries. 

Further, turning a waste stream into a valuable material opens up sustainable pathways: the team is exploring weaving trials and possible applications across luxury textiles, pigments, or even edible uses (the fiber can be ground into a powder).

For more details, see “From waste to wonder: Revival of ancient Roman ‘golden fiber’ with pen shells” on PopSci.